Artífices - History Lab https://historylab.es Fri, 20 May 2022 07:38:45 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.0 https://historylab.es/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/cropped-icono-historylab-32x32.jpg Artífices - History Lab https://historylab.es 32 32 The spinners https://historylab.es/the-spinners/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-spinners Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:26 +0000 https://historylab.es/2022/02/19/las-hilanderas/ Velázquez's work shows an interior of women working in textiles, emphasising their profession through the fable of Arachne

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]]> Velázquez’s work depicts a craft workshop made up of women. In the foreground are the spinners, women of the village who occupy the most important place in the representation, where three generations are shown participating in the work of spinning and reeling the wool. Their bodies convey activity and liveliness as they cooperate in a manual task. In the background are three upper-class women, one of whom focuses her gaze on the mechanical workers. In the 17th century, spinning wheels and spinning were poorly paid jobs that supplied the needs of the weavers’ guilds. Although Velázquez depicts the interior of a possible tapestry factory, the spinning work did not take place inside the factory, but in the house-workshops. At that time, the ordinances of 1561 prohibited women from joining the guild (historiographically increasingly disputed), although their presence in the workshops continued. The master’s wife took over the spinning and was assisted by other women from the age of 12, as they were considered servants since they were denied the status of apprentices.

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]]> The industry https://historylab.es/the-industry/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-industry Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:26 +0000 https://historylab.es/2022/02/19/la-industria/ Goya's work was executed in a different format from the traditional one for the grand staircase of Godoy's palace

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]]> In the 18th century, the enlightened project of the Bourbon Monarchy opened the doors of the guilds to women, eliminating the restrictions that had excluded them until then without incorporating new forms of production. From then on, the first public schools for girls from the lower classes were promoted, giving them an essential role in the tasks “proper to their sex” (those related to textiles). The textile workshops were spaces of sociability and mutual support for women who worked 12-14 hour days in less healthy hygienic conditions than the work suggests. Neither age nor health were clear limits to their involvement in the task of spinning linen, cotton, silk or wool, work that took place in factories in rural areas and, especially, in the domestic sphere. Some women became masters in trades linked to the textile industry, such as cordwainers or weavers, although this may be an exception.

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]]> The washerwomen https://historylab.es/the-washerwomen/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-washerwomen Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:26 +0000 https://historylab.es/2022/02/19/las-lavanderas/ A group of young women, portrayed by Goya, rest after they have laid out some clothes while waiting for them to dry

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]]> The work of the washerwomen depicted in Goya’s composition shows one of the trades that remained intact in Madrid society until well into the 20th century. They are women who washed for their families, but also for middle- and upper-class people or for institutions such as hospitals and barracks. It was a widespread and low-income profession, as well as physically hard, as it required a stooped position and permanent contact with water. These washhouses were places of female sociability where women shared joys, knowledge, confidences, jokes and laughter. In 1790, a Royal Decree addressed to this group prohibited them from shouting and making obscene gestures to passers-by, which raises the question of male behaviour.

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]]> 17th century court gloves https://historylab.es/17th-century-court-gloves/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=17th-century-court-gloves Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:19 +0000 https://historylab.es/2022/02/19/guantes-cortesanos-del-siglo-xvii/ A typical 17th century piece of clothing used as a gift between Courts for which amber or herbs were used to perfume them

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]]> Leather gloves with large silk cuffs trimmed with an embroidered appliqué in metallic threads and twisted threads with floral motifs. The cuffs are decorated with Spanish knitted lace with sequin appliqué. They belonged to Mary Chafin of Zeals but were previously owned by Colonel Troyte Bullock

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]]> Silk Hump https://historylab.es/silk-hump/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=silk-hump Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:19 +0000 https://historylab.es/2022/02/19/jubon-de-seda/ Piece of historical costume from the 17th century

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]]> Silk hampers with grey warp-flowing floats and zigzag and scroll decoration. Short to the waist, it is made from four panels: two at the front and two at the back. The front panels have a deep peak which is closed with 25 buttonholes corresponding to the buttons with a wooden core and lined with a small cord forming a taffeta weave. The doublet was a close-fitting garment, basically for men, which covered the trunk of the body, usually with skirts. It could be sleeveless, or have fixed or replacement sleeves. It was usually padded with bird feathers, cotton or layers of fabric and was worn with tights. It is a garment that forms part of some folk costumes in various countries and regions.

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