Indumentaria - History Lab

Cingara orientale

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:31:21 +0000

Around 1590 Cesare Vecellio (1521-1601) published in Venice one of the best-known works on Cinquecento costume, entitled De gli habiti antichi, et moderni di diverse parti del mondo. The two-volume volume, illustrated with engravings by Christoph Krieger, contains representative costumes from Europe, Asia and Africa, together with extensive commentaries that provide detailed information on the costume, the place of origin of the people and their customs. Among the pages the author devotes to Asia, with the inhabitants of India, is the Gypsy woman (cingara orientale). What stands out about her is the hat that covers her head, an element that Vecellio calls a “crown” in the original Italian text but which is called a bern in Gypsy women’s clothing. This consists of several wide ribbons wound or intertwined on a wide and more or less rigid base, which could sometimes be made of wicker or even wood. The use of this headdress does not seem to correspond to any kind of social or civil category, but rather it is possible that it was an element of protection for both women and children, useful against the rain or the sun, which they would have to face as a nomadic group constantly exposed to the inclemency of the weather. This female attire was complemented by the use of sackcloth over the body and cloaks over the shoulders, which often made it easier to carry children.

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17th century court gloves

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:19 +0000

Leather gloves with large silk cuffs trimmed with an embroidered appliqué in metallic threads and twisted threads with floral motifs. The cuffs are decorated with Spanish knitted lace with sequin appliqué. They belonged to Mary Chafin of Zeals but were previously owned by Colonel Troyte Bullock

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Silk Hump

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:19 +0000

Silk hampers with grey warp-flowing floats and zigzag and scroll decoration. Short to the waist, it is made from four panels: two at the front and two at the back. The front panels have a deep peak which is closed with 25 buttonholes corresponding to the buttons with a wooden core and lined with a small cord forming a taffeta weave. The doublet was a close-fitting garment, basically for men, which covered the trunk of the body, usually with skirts. It could be sleeveless, or have fixed or replacement sleeves. It was usually padded with bird feathers, cotton or layers of fabric and was worn with tights. It is a garment that forms part of some folk costumes in various countries and regions.

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Moors of Granada

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:03 +0000

The image shows the clothing of the Moors of Granada around the 16th century, portrayed by Jean Jacques Boissard in his book ‘Recueil de costumes étrangers’ (1528-1602). It depicts characteristic elements of Moorish dress, such as the sabanilla with a bun on the head, the shirt, the overcoat and the trabaq, which were the ‘Moorish tights’ or ‘calzas moriscos’ (Moorish tights). There is also a figure wearing Moorish underwear (second figure from the left), consisting of the characteristic zaragüelles or wide breeches with many pleats

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16th century Spanish dresses

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:30:03 +0000

This resource includes a total of 23 prints depicting the traditional Spanish clothing of 16th century society. In them, the clothing of men and women from different social and economic backgrounds can be analysed.

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Dresses of young Madrilenians according to their typology (1701-1750)

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:29:36 +0000

According to the study, in the first half of the 18th century, the young people of Madrid preferred to wear French-style dress, i.e. a jacket, jacket and breeches. On the other hand, Spanish dress was relegated to a much smaller number; 26 as opposed to 9 references to clothing. The French influence in Spain on a cultural level took off with the change of power on the Spanish throne after the War of the Spanish Succession. The French style also included the characteristic accessories of Versailles, such as fine hats with silver ribbons, hairpieces and their own dresses. However, the quality and composition of Spanish clothing was still of a higher quality. From the Notarial Protocols studied, all the imported French dresses were of poorer quality than the Spanish or English ones. Thus, the fine cloth dress from Segobia, lined in black serge, was valued at 240 reales; and the military dress with jacket, jacket and two pairs of fine cloth breeches from England was valued at 480.

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Dressing in the French style according to the occupations of young people in Madrid, 1751-1800

ad_hlab_min — Sat, 19 Feb 2022 16:29:36 +0000

During the second half of the 18th century, young people in Madrid showed a change in trends with respect to the professional groups who wore French garments. If at the beginning of the century it was the military, nobles and officers of the Royal Household who most used Gallic clothing, the “fashion” gradually spread to the bourgeois classes linked to education, technical competence, security, doctors and apothecaries. Twenty percent of this group was now above the military, the nobility and the Royal Household (4%, 5% and 6% respectively), as well as clerks, businessmen and those connected with the guilds and crafts. Overall, French-style dress became the fashion throughout the 18th century.

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The post Dressing in the French style according to the occupations of young people in Madrid, 1751-1800 first appeared on History Lab.